A distant cousin of the tomato, tomatillos (physalis ixocarpa) originated in central America and are found growing wild there quite frequently. Growing tomatillos is pretty easy and they're quite productive.
These plants grow as perennials in some hardiness zones, including their home of Mexico through to South America. However, in almost all zones you can grow tomatillos as annuals. In fact, if you've grown their cousins, you can absolutely grow tomatillos.
What is a tomatillo?
While the name, which means little tomato, as well as how to grow them is pretty much the same as growing tomatoes, that's where the similarities stop. Tomatillos grow on vines like their cousins, but are a small green fruit (sometimes purple) fruits covered in a paper husk called the calyx. In fact, they are sometimes referred to as husk tomatoes because of this paper cover.
Their flavor is quite a bit different than a tomato. More bright with hints of citrus with slight herbal undertones they make great fare for green sauces and salsas, especially salsa verde, as well as alongside Mexican dishes like wet burritos or chicken chimichangas.
The papery husk, or calyx, is easily removed with just your fingers to reveal the fruit inside which can be utilized for a variety of uses we will talk about later, but for now, let's talk about how to grow tomatillos.
Varieties to Grow and Where to Find Seeds
While native to Central America, more and more seed companies and even garden centers are beginning to carry tomatillo seeds.
While some things are dependent upon your location and growing season, there are a few general varieties that will do well for most people.
I am pretty passionate about utilizing heirloom, open-pollinated varieties whenever possible, it's more self-sufficient and it's helping preserve our past, so we only buy from companies that utilize those practices.
That being said, Baker Creek (my favorite seed company) carries several tomatillo varieties.
The tomatillos Verde is a highly prolific, easy-to-grow variety (though, really they all are).
And the purple tomatillo varieties like the tomatillo purple have a slightly shorter growing season (70 days vs 80-85) and produce a beautiful, purple, sweeter fruit that stores relatively well.
These varieties have the best reviews, best flavor, and best results, but really any variety will do fine.
When to start indoors
Since, like tomatoes, tomatillos have a long growing season, you will typically want to start them indoors and transplant them outside after the danger of frost has passed.
Generally, you'll want to start the seeds indoors about 6 to 8 weeks before your last frost date. If you aren't sure what that is, you can utilize this calculator to find out.
You'll start the seeds the same way you start any others. Sow at around ¼" deep, plant 2-3 seeds per pot, thin them after they germinate in about 7-14 days, and grow to about 2" tall, pick the strongest seedling to save, and add the rest to the compost pile.
They like it warm, like peppers, so using a heat mat or making sure the temperature is above 70˚F will help encourage germination.
When to transplant
Just like tomato plants, you'll need to transplant your seedlings to larger containers a time or two before setting out in the garden. Once the tomatillo seedlings are about 2-4" tall, you'll want to move them into a larger container. You'll continue increasing container size until you are able to transplant them into the garden.
You will want to harden your seedlings off for a few days before transplanting them into the garden. You'll set them out for a couple of hours the first day and increase the time until they spend a full day outdoors.
Your tomatillo plants should be about 5-6" tall when you transplant them into the garden, make sure that the threat of frost is passed and your nighttime temps are not dipping below 55˚F. If they've been put outside and temps are getting low or there is a chance for frost, the plants will need to be protected with a tunnel or other means.
Planting and Growing Tips
Tomatillos are really very easy to grow. They're prolific, and if you aren't careful, they will often reseed themselves and sprout up next year in the garden, even in colder climates.
You do need to have at least two plants to grow them for cross-pollination or they will not produce any tomatillo fruits. They are also indeterminate meaning they will continue growing and bearing fruit until frost kills them. This is both a blessing and a curse.
It can be difficult to have enough ready for harvest at the same time, but they do keep fairly well, so it isn't generally too big of a problem and small batch canning can solve a lot of these problems, anyway.
Soil
Well-drained, loamy, rich soil is your friend for these yummy fruits. Generally, they will do well in any soil that is suitable for tomatoes but does not do well in really wet conditions.
A helpful growing tip is to avoid planting them in the same space where tomatoes were grown recently.
Sun
These are full sun plants and require such for the best yields. While they can be grown in partial sun, your yield is likely to be very small in comparison.
Planting and Spacing Requirements
When transplanting you'll want to have about 18-24" between plants and space rows 3-4 feet apart. Like tomatoes, they do need some type of support or they'll be all over the ground. Some sort of trellis or traditional tomato cages will do the trick.
You'll want to allow plenty of airflows, especially if you're trying to grow them in humid conditions so they can grow well.
Also, as I mentioned, you need a minimum of two plants as unlike tomatoes, these cousins do not self-pollinate.
Having your garden bed prepared in advance by placing well-aged compost down beforehand will help them do their thing, but they're pretty hands-off.
Recommended companion plants
Some great companion plants are those that will encourage pollinators to visit your gardens like marigolds and nasturtiums.
Carrots, onions, as well as any member of the brassica family (broccoli, Brussels sprouts, etc), grow well alongside tomatillos.
Also interplanting things like garlic, basil, mint, and parsley will help repel any insects that you don't want to find on your plants.
Common Pests
Surprisingly, these are really pretty pest resistant, and not many people have many problems with pests. That makes these another perfect example of a great choice for beginning gardeners.
That being said, that doesn't mean they are immune to pests. Hornworms, cutworms, three-lined potato beetles, and whiteflies can all affect tomatillos.
A lot of these pests can be avoided with good growing conditions, but no one is perfect.
Common Diseases
Like pests, these plants are fairly disease resistant as well. But, things happen. Especially if you wind up with a particularly wet season or space the plants a little too closely, fungal diseases can be a problem. The most common diseases that affect tomatillos are black spot (which can be treated with a fungicide and under drier conditions), and tobacco mosaic virus (which requires quarantine).
Harvesting & Storing
Mature fruit is ready to harvest when it has turned green and filled out the husk. Even purple fruits will have a green husk.
You can leave them on the vine to ripen further, but like tomatoes, they often split. The husk will also typically turn colors. These overripe fruits are not near as good for cooking.
Ripe tomatillos can be pulled off the vine, just like a tomato. They can be slightly dried for a few days and stored in their husk for roughly 2 to 3 weeks in a paper bag in a cool place around 55-60˚F.
Ripe fruits can also be frozen by removing the husk, rinsing, and placing whole in freezer-safe containers for up to 6 months. Just thaw them and use them normally.
These are really awesome, seemingly eccentric fruits for just about anyone to grow from the beginner to the seasoned gardener. They'll provide some color as well as flavor to your garden to expand not only your skills but your palate.
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John says
I grew these for the first time this year and boy did I make some mistakes. First, I grew too many, second I wasn't sure when to pick, but noticed the fruit wasn't filling out the husk, not sure what I was doing wrong? Then for some reason they went from green to a lighter shade of yellow/green. I fertilized on a regular basis, and frozen the ones that looked the best. I even made some salsa with a few of them. Great info for my future planting endeavors.